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Lobster Celeriac Soup with Lobster Foam and Périgord Truffles

The first time I heard of a savory cappuccino was in the early 1990s, when Guy Savoy was doing a mushroom version in his restaurant in Paris. I came up with this dish in the winter, during truffles season; for me, only Périgord truffles, with their incredibly refined, earthy, soul-of-the-woods flavor and smell, would do. They're always so wonderful with lobster, and I knew they would work well with the celeriac.

Serves 4

The Celeriac Soup

The Lobster Foam

The Garnish

For the soup, combine the celeriac with the water, butter, and salt and white pepper to taste in a small pot and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the celeriac is tender.

Drain the celeriac, reserving the cooking liquid, and transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth, adding the cooking liquid as needed to thin to the consistency of a thick soup (you'll need about half the liquid). Set aside.

For the lobster foam, heat the oil in a casserole over medium-high heat. Sear the lobster shells, turning occasionally, for 2 minutes, or until they turn bright red. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Add the brandy, bring to a boil, and reduce slightly until the pan is almost dry. Add the cream, bring to a simmer, and simmer for about 15 minutes, until reduced by one-quarter.

Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve. Using a handheld immersion blender, temper in the lobster roe. Set aside.

For the garnishes, melt the butter with 1 tablespoon water in a small pan. Add the lobster, season with salt and white pepper, and heat through. Meanwhile, bring the soup to a boil, thinning it with more of the reserved cooking liquid if necessary.

Bring the lobster cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and blend with the handheld immersion blender until very frothy.

To serve, divide the lobster meat among four coffee cups or small bowls and pour the soup over the lobster. Spoon the lobster foam over the soup and grate the truffle over the foam. Serve immediately.

The Restaurant Guys

Who Are The Restaurant Guys? Every week, Francis Schott and Mark Pascal host the Restaurant Guys, a show that's as informative as it is fun. Francis and Mark own Stage Left Restaurant in the heart of New Brunswick's theatre district, and, along with their expertise in a wide range of fine dining and wine matters, they bring to the table humor and intelligent conversation, perfect for the midday listener. The show includes discussions and interviews with famous chefs, restaurateurs, wine and food writers, critics; and the Guys even give stuff away occasionally.